The Crimson Azalea Paradise of Mt. Katsuragi
A late spring day in Gose Machi, Nara
Atop the azalea field of Yamato Katsuragi.
I hiked Mt. Katsuragi for the first time last October, when the pampas grass was in full bloom at the summit. My husband and I accidentally hiked the infamous Diamond Trail, requiring us to try scrambling for the first time with slick conditions. Mistakes aside, I thoroughly enjoyed the route and the sight of the golden stalks billowing in the breeze at the top. We didn’t have time to explore Gose Machi, the downtown area, so I put a pin in that until now.
The azaleas are at their best around mid-May, but between our trip to Ise Jingu and a slew of rainy days, I was worried we’d missed our chance to see them. Luckily, a cloudy but dry day finally emerged on May 18. And this time, we were able to add Gose Machi to our conquests, too.
Getting to Gose
Although I was tempted to choose the same course, I opted for the Kujira Falls course instead, just to try something different. Now, the only question was whether I wanted to add onto that. Climbing from Mt. Kongo was too far. Two roads weaving through the foothills of Katsuragisan, however, piqued my interest: Katsuragi no Michi and Katsuragi Kodo.
This is one of the resources I found with the hopes of starting at Katsuragi Hitokotonushi Shrine and continuing up onto the Kujira Falls course. There are so many beautiful shrines along the way, adding to the charm. In the end, I decided to save this venture for early fall, as the area is known for its red spider lilies. If you’re planning to use this map as a reference, note that the bus routes don’t seem to be up-to-date.
With the route selected and post-hike restaurants bookmarked on Google Maps, our itinerary was thus decided.
We arrived in Gose around 8:30 a.m. before booking it to Kintetsu Gose Station for the final bus ride directly to the trailhead. Unfortunately, everyone and their ojiisan had already beaten us there, all outfitted head-to-toe in Montbell—and I mean head-to-toe, because Japanese people have one enemy and it is the sun.
Multiple buses came in quick succession, so there was little wait despite the lines.
Just after 9, we were relieved from the can of sardines that was the bus, setting off on the correct course from the get-go, as was everyone and their aforementioned ojiisan.
I don’t appreciate a crowded trail, especially when my fair skin and French bulldog-like panting betray my average fitness level as I struggle to pass people decades my senior. I’ll pitch in with the excuse that, unbeknownst to me at the time, a sinus infection was having its way with me.
The singular Kujira waterfall was underwhelming, to say the least. It was really just a steady trickle that hikers aren’t allowed to get anywhere near because of the danger of falling rocks. As for the course, it was a steep dirt trail with some sections of stairs breaking it up. I found myself wishing I’d chosen the rocky course once more, because when you’re focusing all of your mental energy on hand and foot placements, the climbing goes much faster. But at least the possibility of slipping in the mud added some intrigue.
Regardless, we finally made contact with some yamatsutsuji, or mountain azaleas, about an hour and a half later. I didn’t keep great track of the timing this day, so don’t hold me to that.
No matter my complaints about the boring, muddy, viewless trail, it was all worth it to get here. The red azaleas popped out against the background of grey skies and dark green mountains, spreading in every direction. Sure, the color wasn’t as bright as the color-graded photos would have you believe, but it was still gorgeous in person.
I could’ve walked through this field forever had I brought more snacks!
My husband and I spent a good long while sitting at the observation deck and winding through the maze of flowers for photos. A portion of the flowers had started to wilt or fall off entirely because we were late in the season. Nevertheless, we managed to find spots where the flowers were still holding on.
A little after 11, our grumbling stomachs couldn’t take the suspense anymore and demanded our immediate descent via cable car. I’m glad we had visited the area once before, because with the way we were sandwiched in, the panoramic view was blocked entirely.
Upon checking the bus schedule, it appeared we’d just missed the bus back down to Gose, and another wouldn’t be coming along for 40 minutes. According to Google Maps, it would take us only a few minutes more than that to simply walk down to Gose, so we picked up some Coke and tea from the vending machine before setting off.
Of course, Google Maps had once again not accounted for it being peak season, so multiple buses passed us on our way down, but that’s no matter. The scenic route along the precarious highway allowed us to encounter one rather bashful brown snake and spot not only a broken-down water wheel mill, but a number of stunning traditional Japanese houses, each with immaculately groomed gardens of seasonal flowers.
Funnily enough, I believe this was the Katsuragi Kodo route spanning from Mt. Katsuragi to Kintetsu Gose Station. If not, it was at least running parallel to it. Either way, doing a bit of trail running down the highway was more fun than another crowded bus ride.
Going downtown to Gose Machi
Some 40 minutes later, Taka and I arrived to find that the bougie restaurant where we’d intended to eat lunch was full, because of course it was! Our roaring stomachs pushed us along, though, and we came upon a quiet cafe serving local, seasonal cuisine. To my delight, they had a wide range of vegetarian offerings, including the Gose mushroom curry I ended up going for. Meanwhile, my husband went for a chicken doria gratin.
While our food was being prepared, I absconded to the bathroom to try and take myself from rank to passable. I wiped myself down with some sweat wipes that had completely dehydrated, changing out my undergarments and shirt before putting them back in the plastic bag I’d packed them in. Another layer of deodorant and sunscreen was slapped on in a fervor. At the sink, which was just opposite the steps and right in front of the kitchen, I desperately removed the mud caked on the inside of my calves before guiltily throwing away the aftermath of my cleanup in the trash can intended for paper towels.
I was nowhere near daisy fresh, but at least a pig wouldn’t mistake me for their playmate.
The curry itself could’ve used some warmer spices to round it out, though I was hungry enough that it didn’t really matter. I appreciated that the owner provided us with a generous pitcher of ice-cold water, too—a rarity in Japan, where most restaurants serve hot tea only. Additionally, it meant I didn’t have to drink out of my hydration vest like a hamster in front of the other patrons, which is always a bonus.
Our next stop on the Gose gastronomy tour was a patisserie, where we got macarons in the strawberry, roasted rice tea, matcha, vanilla, and pistachio varieties, along with some fresh Kocha. Although French patisseries and bakeries are ubiquitous in Japan, macarons like these are a rare find, so I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to have them in this tranquil setting.
Am I getting better at food photography or are these macarons beautiful enough that it doesn’t matter either way?
Though the 1700 yen/5 macaron price tag gave me sticker shock considering they likely weren’t made in-house, the macarons tasted damn good as we scarfed them down in between glugs of iced kocha.
Our stomachs finally satisfied, the two of us continued our exploration of Gose Machi, which, it bears pointing out, we had completely to ourselves. There was only one other party in the cafe, no one else in the patisserie, and the streets themselves resembled a ghost town. On a Sunday, I was expecting crowds, but they were apparently limited to the azalea fields. Rather than being eerie, though, it was peaceful to be able to spread out a little more.
The final stop for the day was Kamotsuba Shrine, a little complex just off the comparatively noisy highway that we, again, had all to ourselves. I don’t think I’ve ever had a shrine or temple completely to myself in Japan, so this was a treat. Being able to take photographs from all angles without having to worry about people being in the frame was beyond nice, too.
Perhaps Gose Machi or Kamotsuba Shrine itself might not seem that impressive compared to other places in, say, Kyoto, but I love it. I love the flowers that are so well cared for, that decorate every corner. I love the friendly people with whom I chatted on the mountain and at the shops I patronized. I love that a 2000-year-old shrine can pop up right alongside an unassuming cobblestone street. I love the unnecessarily intricate manhole covers. I love that two distinctly different kinds of flora can grow on a mountaintop and bring people from all over. Reportedly, Gose is known for its mushroom farms, and god, if I don’t love that, too, as a mushroom enthusiast.
Needless to say, Gose Machi made an impression on me, to the point that I didn’t even mind the 45-minute wait for the next train. The infrastructure came in clutch once more in the form of an air-conditioned waiting room attached to the train station—one that didn’t require us to buy so much as a coffee for permission to enter.
Before long, I’d curated all my photos, and it was time to go home. Until next time, Gose.
Access:
You can access Mt. Katsuragi from either JR Gose Station along the Wakayama Line or Kintetsu Gose Station. From Kintetsu Gose Station, which is a few minutes on foot from JR Gose Station, you’ll take the bus to Katsuragi Ropeway Zen bus stop, where the ascent begins.
From Nara Station, take the Yamatoji Line bound for Ōji Station. Transfer to the Wakayama Line bound for Wakayama, getting off at JR Gose Station and walking to Kintetsu Gose Station. The journey will take just over an hour, including the train, the walk, and the bus ride.
The directions from Osaka are much the same, except you’ll take the Osaka Loop Line Yamatoji Rapid towards Kamo, transferring to the Wakayama Line towards Wakayama at Ōji Station as well. The duration from Osaka Station to Katsuragi Ropeway Zen Station is just under an hour and a half in total.
Be sure to pick up a free map at the shop in Kintetsu Gose Station while waiting for the bus. Most are in Japanese, but there should be ones in English and other foreign languages.
I’ve never been to this mountain outside of peak times, so I cannot confirm whether there is truly only one bus per hour then or not. As I learned this time, however, you can definitely walk the 45 minutes to the trailhead if you need to—just remember to walk in the same direction as the cars for your own safety.
As far as costs go, the bus ride to the ropeway station is 430 yen, while the ropeway itself is 950 yen one-way, or 1500 round-trip.
Katsuragi Kogen Lodge near the summit offers accommodations and meal plans starting at 11,000 yen per adult per night. During the summertime, the campground is a popular place to barbecue. Either one would be a great option to see the sunrise or sunset if you like.
I would still recommend the Hiraitōge course over the Kujira Falls course, if only because it’s more fun. Either way, remember to wear proper footwear with good grip and to have a great time!
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