Why Everyone Should Visit Ise Jingu At Least Once in Their Lifetime
Coastal vibes and lots of great seafood in Mie Prefecture
Meoto Iwa at sunrise.
There’s a lyric in the Japanese folk song Ise Ondo that goes, “I want to go to Ise Jingu. I want to walk Ise Road at least once before I die.” That longing for this particular place is something I’ve felt in all my years in Japan. Somehow, though, I haven’t made the pilgrimage to the most important Shinto shrine in Japan until now.
And now that I, too, have walked Ise Road, I can confidently say it was worth the wait.
Our trip begins
My husband and I live in a small town on the border between Osaka and Nara Prefecture. 95 kilometers stretch between our home and Ise Shrine, a distance that we were able to cover in just over two hours on the morning of May 12, 2025. Or rather, we would have made that great journey in that time if my husband hadn’t tried to beat Google Maps at its own game. As it turned out, the alternative route that he “swore was faster” actually took us in Wakayama’s direction.
Nevertheless, we arrived at 11, perfect timing to fill our bellies with Ise udon, the first of many specialties we would try on this trip. I was not expecting such a simple meal of soy sauce, sesame paste, and noodles to be so delicious, but the tsukimi variety with a raw egg on top proved me wrong. It also ended up splattering all over my tan Audrey Hepburn-style trousers; thankfully, the obaasan cook who stood two heads shorter than me was ready with a dish soap-covered wipe.
Outfit saved, we progressed to Geku, the outer complex of Ise Jingu. Immediately, I was struck by the scent of the cedar trees. Trunks wrapped in bamboo sheaths, these trees were gargantuan in size and older, probably, than my home country. Although the thatched-roof buildings adorned with gold were impressive, the trees, standing firmly rooted in that ancient ground, made me feel a Lorax-like kinship with them. Matagama Pond was a favorite on this first day, too, though I think we were too early for the irises to bloom in and around the pond itself.
Because the grounds of Geku are fairly small, it didn’t take much time before we found ourselves across the street eating dango and sipping a matcha latte. Today was a travel day in pianissimo. Tomorrow would be forte.
Living so far inland, it’s amazing what a healthy dose of ocean air can do for the soul. Like an ailing Victorian child, I breathed easier, the swells of my chest rising more and more as the orange train carried us to Futaminoura, the beach town where Taka and I would be staying for the night.
Right away, Futaminoura felt like a ghost town. The road to our accommodation alternated between abandoned ryokans and frog statues. I wish I’d asked the clerks what happened here, and where all the business owners went. My guess is that many people may have passed away over the years, and the younger generations didn’t want to incur the costs of maintaining such grandiose places along a tsunami-prone coast. Regardless, the town is simply gorgeous.
After dropping off our luggage at Oishiya (translating to “big rock place,” not oishii, the Japanese word for “yummy”), we set off on the boardwalk right in front of our hotel. We truly couldn’t have asked for a better location, because both Meoto Iwa, the wedded rocks, and Futami Okitami Shrine, the place of worship responsible for all the frog statues, were just a few minutes’ walk from our hotel. I had dreamed of seeing this place for so long, and now I didn’t even have to take my eyes off it when in the hotel room, visible as it was from the shoji door window.
It being mid-May, I was hoping to cajole my husband into taking a swim with me. I’d even brought my swimsuit and a spare outfit for Taka. Google Maps was populated with pictures of people taking a swim here, presumably in the latter months of summer. Upon closer inspection, however, the water looked too dirty for anything but a wade, and the beach was not made of sand, but of small pebbles. At the very least, I was able to take off my socks and Docs for a traipse in the water, splashing my husband whenever the tide came in.
My feet dried off and booted once more, the two of us spent a long while sitting side by side on the beach like something out of a rom-com, taking in the lull of the waves and all the people coming and going. I was in love with this place, I could feel it.
Once check-in time had rolled around, a pink kimono-clad woman led us to our room, where we again took in the beachside views before heading to the onsen. Visiting during the off-season had its perks here, because there were several private onsens available to choose from for our mid-afternoon soak.
A couple episodes of Gilmore Girls later, it was dinner time, and this was perhaps the most decadent meal either of us had eaten to date. Every bit of Ise seafood was there: abalone, clams, oysters, bonito, and other kinds of fish I couldn’t tell you the name of. Every course was elegantly presented: grilled abalone swimming in butter, a martini glass with fish atop a bed of pickled lettuce with purple and yellow flowers, and a slider of juicy apples, creme brûlée, cookies and cream cheesecake, and nanbari melon sorbet.
I normally limit myself to a humble bowl of miso soup with brown rice, kimchi, and a fried egg for dinner, so my stomach was near bursting when eating all this food, but it was worth every notch I have to expand my belt now. Truly, what a memorable dining experience.
Day two
Our second day in Ise began at 4:20 a.m. The reason for being up at this ungodly hour? To capture the sun rising between the wedded rocks. Unfortunately, the clouds showed up to quell my photography ambitions, but the tiramisu of purple, pink, and orange hues over the water was still magnificent. And we weren’t the only witnesses to the beauty—a handful of Japanese men dressed immaculately in business suits were all smiles as we watched the sky brighten together. My yukata that kept revealing my scanty pajama shorts and burgundy Doc Martens was no match for their drip, but hey, we finally paid a visit to the dragon shrine just down the way, and it was every bit as cool as I expected.
Mercifully, I was able to get back to sleep and wake for breakfast with not a hint of tiredness. I could not wait to get to the inner grounds (Naiku). After a post-breakfast stroll on the beach and one more dip in the onsen, we were on our way.
A shuttle, train ride, and bus ride later, Taka and I stepped onto the hallowed grounds of Ise Jingu. Greeting us first was the expansive pebble-covered entrance framed by lush green mountains and kaiyu-style zen gardens, just through the massive stone torii gates on Uji Bridge. The scale of everything was just breathtaking.
Continuing on the road that Ise Ondo is written about, we cleansed ourselves at Isuzu River, dipping our hands in the gleaming aqua waters. Resisting the temptation to jump right in for a swim was challenging, as the sun was already beating down on us at 11 a.m.
The leafy branches of the cedar trees shaded us from then on, at the very least. Without a car and no buses on the weekdays, we couldn’t hike Mt. Asama or see too many shrines in the complex, but the ones we did see were stunning. I personally enjoyed watching the koi fish dart through the lily-covered waters of the central pond. They were certainly thriving more than the lonesome horse locked up in a tiny stable in the middle of the grounds, that’s for sure.
Around 11:30, we headed back to Okage Yokocho for a tekonezushi lunch—another Ise specialty. I opted for an assorted seafood bowl, which was great but nowhere near the level of the dinner I’d had the previous night. Taka went for a Matsusaka wagyu beef bowl.
I’ve seen a lot of praise for Okage Yokocho that I didn’t get after walking through. The wooden buildings are well-kept, don’t get me wrong, but I’m of the opinion that once you’ve seen one alleyway in Japan, you’ve kind of seen them all.
That being said, there were a few more spots on the outskirts that were well worth venturing to see. For one, a cafe my husband brought us to, which had riverside views of Isuzu. That is where I became a citrus dessert convert, because the lemon meringue pie was so refreshing on this hot day.
From there, we went down to the river, just in front of the underwhelming Eboshi Rock, to skip stones and run our hands through the clear water. And yes, I did splash Taka with a sizable heft of water once more.
Our last stop was easily my most anticipated: Jingu Rose Garden. Over 150 varieties of roses from across the globe bloom here. I have minimal knowledge of flowers, so I can’t tell you anything else except that this place is nothing short of magical. Though tiny and unassuming from its parking lot location, it is like stepping into a Jane Austen novel. On the right are several English garden-style benches. In the middle, a row of arches covered in roses of all colors. To the left is a viewing area built like a Japanese shrine.
Taka and I actually found ourselves stopping to smell the roses. As it turns out, only some varieties have a distinctive fragrance. Still, it was so much fun to let ourselves be kids again, enjoying the simple pleasure of being surrounded by beautiful flowers in every direction. And the best part: no entrance fee!
Final thoughts
Our timing worked out perfectly, as we left Ise Jingu around 3:30 and got home shortly before dinnertime, allowing me the rest of the night to lie in bed and watch Gilmore Girls. Although I regret not being able to fit in a proper hike in Ise Shima National Park on this trip, I cannot sing my praises for this area anymore. Everything from the food to the accommodation to the peaceful atmosphere of Ise Jingu itself was spectacular.
I chose to go in mid-May specifically because the flowers at Jingu Rose Garden would be in full bloom. This was also a belated birthday trip for me, as my birthday falls during the expensive and crowded Golden Week, when most employees and their kids have ten days off, similar to spring break in the U.S. I am grateful for my and my husband’s self-employed status, which allowed us to delay our visit until one of my favorite months in Japan.
Yesterday consisted of another flower-themed day trip, the write-up of which should be coming soon. Going into June, I will be in Hong Kong visiting my mother-in-law’s side of the family, a trip which I’m hoping will involve swimming in the ocean, hiking, and lots of great Cantonese food. That being said, be sure to sign up for my emails so you can be notified of all the travel content coming your way!
Access:
From Osaka: From Osaka Station, take the Osaka Loop Line to Tsuruhashi Station before changing to the Kintetsu Limited Express bound for Iseshi Station. If you want to stop by Geku first, you can get off at Gekumae Station instead. To get to Naiku, take the CAN bus from Iseshi Station to Naikumae. To get to Meoto Iwa, take the Sangu Line Local train bound for Toba, getting off at Futaminoura Station.
Please note that the trains come rather infrequently and, because Futaminoura Station does not accept IC cards, you will need to get a ticket either at Iseshi Station or in the first car of the train when getting off. Depending on where you get off, the journey will take about 2.5 hours.
From Nara: From Nara Station, take the Man-yo Mahoroba Line bound for Takada, getting off at Sakurai Station. Walk to Kintetsu Sakurai Station to take the Kintetsu Osaka Line Express toward Ise-Nakagawa. You’ll need to transfer again at Nabari Station to the Kintetsu Limited Express bound for Kashikojima, either getting off at Gekumae Station or Iseshi Station. To get to Naiku, take the CAN bus from Iseshi Station to Naikumae. To get to Meoto Iwa, take the Sangu Line Local train bound for Toba, getting off at Futaminoura Station.
Please note that the trains come rather infrequently and, because Futaminoura Station does not accept IC cards, you will need to get a ticket either at Iseshi Station or in the first car of the train when getting off. Depending on where you get off, the journey will take about 2.5 hours.
FAQs:
1. Do you recommend Ise Jingu as a day trip?
Neither Geku nor Naiku take much time to explore if you’re sticking to the main hotspots, but considering it takes 2.5 hours to get there from either Osaka or Nara, I don’t think Ise Jingu is suitable as a day trip. Especially if you want to hike Mt. Asama or go deeper into Ise Shima National Park, I recommend staying overnight. Staying overnight in Ise City is probably the most convenient, but Futaminoura and Toba are wonderful places to fully appreciate the coastal vibes Mie has to offer. Of course, I can personally vouch for Oishiya.
2. Is Ise Jingu wheelchair accessible?
Both the inner and outer grounds of Ise Jingu have medium-sized stones in place of solid pavement, so I would not think that most wheelchairs could make it through this terrain. Okage Yokocho and Meoto Iwa are wheelchair accessible, however.
3. What food do you recommend eating in Ise?
Ise has many specialty foods: Tekonezushi, nanbari melon, dango, spiny lobster, abalone, satsumaage fish cakes, and more. If you are there during spiny lobster season, be prepared to splurge for the meal of a lifetime!
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